Korea as a family

Children under six travel free on the subway and buses with an adult. From six to twelve the fare is reduced, provided you have the date of birth registered on the T-money card at a convenience store.

Every station has lifts, but they are sometimes far away and slow, and transfers are long. A light folding pushchair, or a baby carrier, makes life much easier. The old districts — Bukchon, the hanok villages — are steep and cobbled.

Child seats are not the norm. For airport transfers, a car service with a seat can be booked in advance.

High-speed trains are ideal: fast, roomy, with baby-changing spaces. Children under six travel free without a reserved seat.

Found in major subway stations, railway stations, shopping centres and airports, with a changing table and often a microwave.

The big theme park, with zoo and gardens. A full day.

Period houses, craftspeople, equestrian shows and tightrope acrobats.

Royal tombs like hills, bikes, a theme park by the lake: the easiest historic city with children.

Beaches, an aquarium, a cable car over the sea and a little coastal train.

Pale-sand beaches, lava tubes, mandarin picking, playful museums: the island is Koreans' favourite family destination.

Gimbap, mandu dumplings, kalguksu noodles, bulgogi, grilled ribs, plain fried chicken, donkkaseu breaded pork, juk rice porridge, jjajangmyeon black-sauce noodles, samgyetang chicken soup.

Cut fruit from convenience stores, banana milk, filled buns from bakeries, fish-shaped waffles, roasted sweet potatoes in winter.

High chairs are common, children's tableware almost always available, and nobody minds noise in family restaurants. A few cafés and restaurants do, however, display "no kids zone": it is legal, and to be respected.

Nappies, formula and baby food are found in supermarkets and drugstores, less easily in convenience stores. Bring your usual brand for the first days.