The guide › Seoul › Itaewon & Yongsan
Seoul · South of centre
The most cosmopolitan district in the city, long shaped by the presence of the US military base. It holds three of the country's best museums, and just about every cuisine in the world.
Updated 7 October 2026
Yongsan is Seoul's central district, between Namsan and the river. The American base that occupied it has moved out, and its land is gradually becoming a park. Around it, Itaewon has kept its identity as the foreigners' quarter: this is where you will find halal, Mexican, French or Nigerian food, and the most visible LGBT scene in the country.
The district also carries the memory of the tragedy of 29 October 2022, when a crowd crush killed 159 people in an alley on Halloween night. A memorial stands beside exit 1 of the station.
A vast, free museum, essential for understanding the 1950–53 war and the division of the country. Tanks and aircraft on the forecourt, very clear galleries inside. Allow half a day.
The country's great museum: Silla gold crowns, Goryeo celadon, the Pensive Bodhisattva. Free permanent collection, superb building, parkland around it. Open daily, late on Wednesdays and Saturdays.
Ancient Korean art and international contemporary art in three buildings by Mario Botta, Jean Nouvel and Rem Koolhaas. Book your slot online.
A kilometre of shops, restaurants and bars. Antique Street runs downhill to the south; Seoul Central Mosque overlooks the hill.
"Liberation village", founded by refugees from the North, clinging to the slope of Namsan. Cafés and rooftop bars with views across the whole city. It is a serious climb.
The street that started Seoul's craze for café districts. Less fashionable than ten years ago, and more pleasant for it.
The chic side: galleries, designer boutiques, polished restaurants. Many celebrities live here.
The former base land is opening in stages. Access and open areas keep changing: ask locally.
Itaewon is where to eat something other than Korean if the urge strikes after two weeks: Texas barbecue, tacos, Middle Eastern cooking, Neapolitan pizza.
Certified restaurants cluster on the street leading up to the mosque. It is the easiest area in the country for halal dining.
From craft-beer pubs to rooftop cocktail bars. Prices are higher than in Hongdae.
The lane of gay bars behind the fire station. Korea remains conservative on these matters; here, nobody will give you a second look.
The War Memorial and the National Museum are two stops apart. Do not do both on the same day: each needs at least three hours.
The War Memorial and the Leeum are closed. The National Museum stays open.
Haebangchon and Gyeongnidan are best walked downhill: go up by neighbourhood bus (the small green ones) and walk back down.
The headquarters of BTS's agency is in Yongsan. The building is not open to the public and its museum has closed: not worth a special trip.