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Seoul · The historic north

Palaces, Bukchon and Insadong경복궁 · 북촌

The heart of the Joseon capital: five palaces, a royal shrine and an entire district of traditional houses, all within walking distance. It is the one day not to miss, and the one that takes the most planning.

Updated 7 October 2026

What to know before you go

The palaces do not share the same closing day, and that is what catches most visitors out: Gyeongbokgung and Jongmyo Shrine close on Tuesdays; Changdeokgung, Changgyeonggung and Deoksugung on Mondays. Ticket offices close an hour before the site.

Entry is cheap: about ₩3,000 for Gyeongbokgung or Changdeokgung, ₩1,000 for the others. A ₩6,000 combination ticket covers the four main palaces and Jongmyo. And if you are wearing a hanbok, it is free.

Bukchon is a real residential neighbourhood. Since 2025, the most photographed area has been open to visitors only from 10 am to 5 pm, with fines for those who ignore it: come within that window, keep your voice down, and do not photograph inside courtyards.

The places

Gyeongbokgung

경복궁

The largest of the palaces, rebuilt after being razed during the Japanese occupation. Do not stop at the throne hall: Gyeonghoeru Pavilion on its pond and the Hyangwonjeong garden at the back are the loveliest spots. Changing of the guard at 10 am and 2 pm in front of Gwanghwamun Gate.

Subway line 3, Gyeongbokgung · closed Tuesdays · Maps ↗

Changdeokgung and the Secret Garden

창덕궁 · 후원

A UNESCO site, more intimate than Gyeongbokgung and following the terrain rather than flattening it. The Secret Garden (Huwon) can only be visited on a guided tour, for about ₩5,000 extra: book online a few days ahead, English slots go fast.

Subway line 3, Anguk · closed Mondays · Maps ↗

Bukchon Hanok Village

북촌한옥마을

Several hundred traditional houses on a hillside between the two palaces. The best-known lane is Bukchon-ro 11-gil; the neighbouring streets are almost as pretty and ten times quieter.

Subway line 3, Anguk, exit 2 · 10 am–5 pm · Maps ↗

Insadong

인사동

The street of antique dealers, galleries and teahouses. Step into the Ssamziegil courtyard for contemporary crafts, and push open the door of a traditional teahouse in the side lanes.

Subway line 3, Anguk, exit 6 · Maps ↗

Jongmyo Shrine

종묘

Where the spirit tablets of the Joseon kings and queens are kept. Sober, vast, silent — the opposite of the colourful palaces. Guided tours on weekdays, free access on Saturdays.

Subway lines 1, 3 and 5, Jongno 3-ga · closed Tuesdays · Maps ↗

Ikseon-dong

익선동

A pocket of 1920s hanok turned into cafés and restaurants. Very fashionable, so packed at weekends; on a weekday at 11 am it is a pleasure.

Subway Jongno 3-ga, exit 4 · Maps ↗

Seochon

서촌

The village west of Gyeongbokgung, less restored than Bukchon and more lived-in. At Tongin Market you build your own lunch tray stall by stall using old-style coins.

Subway line 3, Gyeongbokgung, exit 2 · Maps ↗

Gwanghwamun Square

광화문광장

The great esplanade in front of the palace, with the statues of King Sejong and Admiral Yi Sun-sin. Beneath the Sejong statue, a free exhibition tells the story of the Korean alphabet.

Subway line 5, Gwanghwamun · Maps ↗

A typical day

9 am

Gyeongbokgung at opening

Arrive before the groups, head straight to the back of the palace, then come back to the entrance for the 10 am changing of the guard. Allow two hours.

11.30 am

Lunch in Seochon

Tongin Market or one of the area's samgyetang (ginseng chicken) restaurants.

1.30 pm

Bukchon

Walk up through Samcheong-dong and its galleries, cross the hanok village, come back down towards Anguk. An hour and a half at an easy pace.

3.30 pm

Changdeokgung

Visit the palace, then your booked slot for the Secret Garden. Allow two hours.

6 pm

Insadong or Ikseon-dong

A teahouse, then dinner in the lanes of Ikseon-dong.

Good to know

Hanbok: where to rent

Shops cluster around Gyeongbokgung station and in Bukchon. Expect about ₩15,000 to ₩30,000 for two to four hours, hairstyling included in some packages.

Free guided tours

Each palace runs English tours at fixed times, included in the ticket. Times are posted at the entrance.

Night openings

In spring and autumn, Gyeongbokgung and Changgyeonggung open on certain evenings. Tickets are booked online and sell out in minutes.

The Blue House

Cheong Wa Dae, the presidential compound behind Gyeongbokgung, has been closed to the public since 1 August 2025: the presidential office moved back in at the end of 2025. You can now only see it from outside, from the plaza in front of the gate; the Sarangchae exhibition centre opposite remains open and free.