Gwangjang Market
광장시장The most famous for eating, open since 1905. The specialities: bindaetteok mung-bean pancakes fried in front of you, "mayak" mini gimbap, yukhoe beef tartare, knife-cut kalguksu noodles. Very busy; come late morning or mid-afternoon.
Subway line 1, Jongno 5-ga, exit 8 ·
Maps ↗Namdaemun Market
남대문시장The largest traditional market in the country: ten thousand shops across several streets. Clothes, tableware, ginseng, glasses, souvenirs. Not to be missed: kalguksu alley and the braised hairtail alley. Largely closed on Sundays.
Subway line 4, Hoehyeon, exit 5 ·
Maps ↗Dongdaemun
동대문The textile district. The big wholesale malls open at night and close in the morning; the retail arcades run in the daytime. Right beside it, Zaha Hadid's Dongdaemun Design Plaza, all aluminium curves, is free to walk through.
Subway lines 2, 4 and 5, Dongdaemun History & Culture Park ·
Maps ↗Noryangjin Fish Market
노량진수산시장You choose your live fish or shellfish on the ground floor, then an upstairs restaurant prepares it, raw or grilled, for a per-person fee. Open day and night; the auctions take place around 1 am.
Subway lines 1 and 9, Noryangjin ·
Maps ↗Mangwon Market
망원시장A real neighbourhood market near Hongdae, loved for its fritters, croquettes and sauced fried chicken.
Subway line 6, Mangwon, exit 2 ·
Maps ↗Tongin Market
통인시장A small market near Gyeongbokgung. You buy old-style coins and build your lunch tray as you go from stall to stall.
Subway line 3, Gyeongbokgung, exit 2 ·
Maps ↗Gyeongdong Market
경동시장The market for medicinal herbs and ginseng, huge and barely touristy. An old cinema there has been turned into a spectacular café.
Subway line 1, Jegi-dong, exit 2 ·
Maps ↗Express Bus Terminal underground arcade
고투몰Almost a kilometre of cheap clothing shops beneath the express bus terminal. Bargain heaven, especially at the end of a season.
Subway lines 3, 7 and 9, Express Bus Terminal ·
Maps ↗