Circuits
Three circuits across the country
Routes that keep moving, stage by stage, with the transport between each city and the number of nights worth staying. The country is compact enough that a circuit never becomes exhausting — as long as you don't change city every single day.
1 week
The simplest circuit: the capital, the ancient capital, and the great southern port. Three cities in seven days is the sensible maximum — beyond that you'd spend your trip on trains.
Seoul
Palaces and Bukchon on day one, markets and Namsan on day two, the DMZ on day three — that last one needs booking ahead. Evenings in Hongdae or by the Han river, depending on the energy left.
Gyeongju
One night is enough if you're efficient: the Daereungwon tombs and Cheomseongdae observatory the afternoon you arrive, Anapji pond lit up in the evening, then Bulguksa and Seokguram the next morning. The town is best covered by bike.
Busan
Jagalchi Market on waking, Gamcheon village midday, Haeundae beach late afternoon. Day two: Beomeosa Temple up in the hills, then Nampodong in the evening.
Seoul
Last shopping in Myeongdong or Gangnam, a final evening, and the AREX to the airport next morning.
2 weeks
The classic loop: down the east coast, across the traditional heartland, back up the west. Six stages, with enough time to genuinely stop at each.
Seoul
Palaces, Bukchon, markets, Namsan, Gangnam, the Han river — plus the DMZ as a day trip. Four nights is the minimum to avoid rushing.
Sokcho
A full day in Seoraksan National Park — cable car if you'd rather have the view without the climb. Day two: Abai village and Naksansa Temple by the sea.
Andong
UNESCO-listed Hahoe village, the Dosan Seowon Confucian academy, and Woryeonggyo bridge lit at night. Try jjimdak chicken, the local speciality.
Gyeongju
Unhurried this time: the tombs, Bulguksa, Seokguram, Banwolseong fortress and the national museum. Two nights lets you do it all by bike, calmly.
Busan
Jagalchi, Gamcheon, Haeundae, Beomeosa. Add Haedong Yonggungsa temple, set on the rocks facing the sea.
Jeonju
The country's largest hanok village, Jeondong Cathedral, a hanji paper workshop. And bibimbap in the city that invented it.
Seoul
One last night in the capital before flying out.
3 weeks
The grand tour, with Jeju island in the middle and genuine rest days built in. This is the length where you stop visiting and start understanding the country.
Seoul
The full usual programme, plus the museums: the War Memorial and the LEEUM each deserve half a day. And the DMZ.
Sokcho
Seoraksan National Park over a full day, Abai village and Naksansa the next.
Gangneung
The east coast in gentle mode: Daegwallyeong pass and its pastures, Gyeongpo beach, the old houses of Ojukheon and Seongyojang, and the seafront cafés.
Andong
Hahoe, Dosan Seowon, the mask museum. With two nights you can also take a slow walk along the river.
Gyeongju
The tombs, Bulguksa, Seokguram, Banwolseong, the national museum, and an evening at Anapji pond.
Busan
The essentials plus a day to wander: Nampodong, Haedong Yonggungsa, and an evening on the beach.
Jeju
Hallasan for walkers, Seongsan Ilchulbong at sunrise, a stretch of Olle trail, Manjanggul lava tube and the Haenyeo Museum. Three nights so you're not rushing the island.
Jeonju
The hanok village is worth sleeping in: the lanes at dawn, with nobody about, are an entirely different sight.
Seoul
Two nights for last shopping, whatever you missed at the start, and a final meal before the AREX.
Or stay in one place
The other way to travel: one city as a base camp, with day trips around it. You unpack once, you know your neighbourhood after two days, and you travel far less tired.
Seoul · 5 days
The long-weekend or stopover format. Five days barely covers Seoul, so there's no sense wasting them on trains. One day trip, and even that is optional.
Arrival and settling in
T-money card at the airport convenience store, AREX into town. In the evening, stay in your neighbourhood — jet lag catches up fast.
The palaces
Gyeongbokgung at opening, Bukchon and its hanoks, lunch in Insadong, Changdeokgung and its secret garden in the afternoon.
Markets and panorama
Gwangjang Market for breakfast, Dongdaemun after, then Namsan late afternoon to watch the city light up.
A day trip
The DMZ, or Suwon fortress if you'd rather something lighter. Back in Seoul by evening.
Gangnam and departure
Bongeunsa temple, COEX, the view from Jamsil, and last shopping.
Seoul · 1 week
Seoul in depth, with three different day trips around it. You never change hotel and yet see far more than on a circuit.
Arrival
Check in, first meal in the neighbourhood, T-money card.
Palaces and hanoks
Gyeongbokgung, Bukchon, Insadong, Changdeokgung.
Markets, Namsan, Hongdae
Gwangjang in the morning, Namsan at sunset, Hongdae in the evening.
The DMZ
A full day, booking required. Quiet evening by the Han river.
Suwon
Hwaseong fortress and its palace, 45 minutes away. Back that evening.
Museums and Itaewon
The War Memorial in the morning, the LEEUM museum in the afternoon, Itaewon in the evening.
Gangnam and Jamsil
Bongeunsa, COEX, the view from Seoul Sky, last shopping.
Busan · 4 days
A far more relaxed base than Seoul, with the sea a metro ride away and Gyeongju an hour off. Ideal if you fly straight into Gimhae airport.
Arrival and seafront
Check in, then Haeundae beach and the coastal walk at the end of the day.
Markets and colour
Jagalchi Market on waking, Gamcheon village midday, Nampodong in the evening.
Day trip to Gyeongju
An hour by train: the tombs, Bulguksa, Seokguram. Back to Busan that evening.
Temples and departure
Beomeosa Temple up in the hills, or Haedong Yonggungsa by the water depending on time.
Jeju · 4 days
The island suits a base camp perfectly: everything is under an hour's drive, and its rhythm is nothing like the mainland. A good way to end a trip.
Arrival and north coast
Flight from Seoul or Busan, check in, then Manjanggul lava tube and the Haenyeo Museum.
The sunrise
Seongsan Ilchulbong very early — 25 minutes up, and that's what you came for. In the afternoon, a stretch of coastal Olle trail.
Hallasan
A full day for the country's highest point. Two trails reach the summit, the other two stop halfway.
South of the island and departure
Cheonjiyeon waterfalls, the Jusangjeolli cliffs, then the flight home.
Gyeongju · 3 days
An unusual base, but it makes sense: the town is small, everything works by bike, and the evening atmosphere is incomparable once the tour coaches have left.
The historic centre
The Daereungwon tombs, Cheomseongdae observatory, Banwolseong fortress and its ice house. In the evening, Anapji pond lit up.
The temples
Bulguksa in the morning, Seokguram grotto straight after, then the national museum in the afternoon.
Around the town
Gyerim forest and its legends, the royal tombs nearby, or a day trip to Busan an hour away by train.