Health and safety

Recognisable by the character 약 displayed large. Pharmacists advise readily and many understand written English: show your symptoms translated on your phone. They close early in the evening and often on Sundays.

Painkillers, cold remedies and basic plasters are sold in the 24-hour convenience stores.

For an everyday problem you walk into a specialised neighbourhood clinic (GP, ENT, dermatologist) without an appointment. The consultation is quick and costs a few tens of thousands of won without local insurance.

The big university hospitals in Seoul and Busan have international clinics with interpreters. The medical standard is excellent; without insurance, so is the bill.

Essential. Your home health cover does not apply in Korea. Check what your credit card covers, and take out a policy including medical costs and repatriation if that is not enough.

Carry them in their original packaging, with the prescription, ideally in English, and in a quantity matching the length of your stay.

Narcotics and many psychotropic drugs — some ADHD treatments, opioid painkillers, sleeping pills — require prior authorisation from the Korean health authorities, to be requested several weeks before departure.

Strictly prohibited in every form, including CBD oils, sweets and cosmetics that are legal elsewhere. Penalties are heavy.

Consult the Korea Customs Service website or the Korean embassy before leaving.

The true everyday danger. Cars turn right on red, delivery scooters ride on pavements, buses pull away fast. Look before crossing, even on green.

In July and August the humidity makes 32 °C very trying. Drink a lot, schedule outdoor visits in the morning, and make the most of the ever-present air conditioning.

Between July and September, torrential rain can flood underpasses and cancel flights and ferries. Follow local instructions and stay away from swollen rivers.

Fine-dust episodes occur mainly in spring and winter. Weather apps show the index; on red days Koreans wear a KF94 filtering mask, sold everywhere.

In January the wind chill drops below −15 °C in Seoul. Stick-on heat packs are sold in every convenience store.

Trails are well marked but steep. Each park sets a cut-off time for starting out; respect it.

Theft and assault are rare. People walk at night in the big cities without particular concern, including women on their own. Ordinary common sense is enough.

Few. The most common: an unmetered taxi near tourist sites, bars that pad the bill in nightlife districts, and over-friendly strangers inviting you to a "traditional ceremony" — they are cult recruiters. Decline politely.

People drink a lot, and late. Travellers' troubles almost always start there: watch your glass and your belongings at the end of the night.

Tensions make headlines abroad far more than they weigh on daily life. Alert drills take place from time to time: sirens, traffic stopped for a few minutes. Simply follow the people around you.

It applies strictly to foreigners: drugs, drink-driving, photographing people without their consent. Smoking outside designated areas carries a fine.

Homosexuality is legal but not very visible, and same-sex marriage is not recognised. Public displays of affection are discreet for all couples. No particular risk for a traveller.