Palaces & Bukchon
경복궁 · 북촌Gyeongbokgung, Changdeokgung, Bukchon Hanok Village and Insadong in one day.
The guide › Seoul
The capital
Seoul, neighbourhood by neighbourhood서울
Ten million people, yet a city that breaks down neatly: every district has its own character, pace and best time of day. Here is how to plan so you don't spend your trip on the subway.
Updated 7 October 2026
The essentials in one minuteHow many daysThe neighbourhoods, one by oneWhere to stay in SeoulGetting around without thinking about itSeven first-visit mistakesGood deals that always work
The essentials in one minute
Seoul is split in two by the Han River. To the north, the historic city: the Joseon palaces, lanes of hanok houses, the markets, Mount Namsan. To the south, the modern city: Gangnam, its towers, malls and wide avenues. Between the two, twenty to forty minutes by subway.
The classic trap is trying to see everything and crossing the city three times a day. Do the opposite: one area per day, and you walk instead of waiting for connections.
How many days
3 days
The minimum for a first impression: the palaces and Bukchon, the markets and Namsan, then Gangnam or Hongdae. You will leave wanting to come back.
5 days
The right length. You add a day trip (the DMZ or Suwon), a museum, and above all time to wander — which is when Seoul grows on you.
1 week
Use the city as a base and fan out: three different day trips without ever changing hotel.
The neighbourhoods, one by one
Myeongdong & Namsan
명동 · 남산Street food and cosmetics in Myeongdong, then sunset from Namsan.
Hongdae
홍대Street music, vintage shops and cafés around Hongik University, plus the quiet lanes of Yeonnam-dong.
Itaewon & Yongsan
이태원 · 용산Three major museums, restaurants from every country and the terraces of Haebangchon.
Gangnam
강남Bongeunsa Temple beneath the towers, COEX, Lotte Tower and the smart streets of Apgujeong.
The markets
시장Gwangjang, Namdaemun, Dongdaemun, Noryangjin: what to eat, when to come, what it costs.
Where to stay in Seoul
Myeongdong명동
The easiest choice for a first visit: central, on lines 2 and 4, airport buses at the door, restaurants open late. Noisy and very touristy, but practical in every way.
Hongdae홍대
Young, lively, affordable, and linked directly to the airport by AREX. Ideal if you go out at night; avoid it if you go to bed early, the streets stay busy until dawn.
Insadong and Jongno인사동 · 종로
Walking distance from the palaces and Bukchon. Quieter in the evening, with hanok guesthouses where you sleep on a heated floor.
Gangnam강남
Modern hotels and wide avenues, perfect for a business trip or if you are catching a train from Suseo. But you are 30–40 minutes from the palaces.
Seoul Station서울역
No particular charm, but unbeatable if you are stringing trains together: KTX, AREX and lines 1 and 4 in one place.
Getting around without thinking about it
The subway does everything: it is dense, punctual, announced in English, and a ride costs about ₩1,550 with a T-money card. Buses fill the gaps, especially for going up Namsan or reaching the hillside districts.
If you are staying a few days and riding a lot, look at the short-term Climate Card: an unlimited Seoul subway and bus pass for about ₩5,000 for one day, ₩10,000 for three days or ₩20,000 for seven. It does not cover the AREX express, the Shinbundang line or buses outside Seoul.
To plan a route, forget Google Maps: it cannot give directions in Korea. Use Naver Map or Kakao Map. It is all explained in the apps to install and in the transport guide.
Seven first-visit mistakes
Arriving on a Monday or Tuesday without checking
Gyeongbokgung closes on Tuesdays, Changdeokgung and most museums on Mondays. Schedule your palace days accordingly.
Staying far from the subway
Ten minutes' walk to the station, four times a day, is forty minutes lost. Aim for under five.
Underestimating distances
Hongdae to Gangnam takes forty minutes. Group your visits by area rather than by whim.
Forgetting cash
The T-money card can only be topped up with cash, and market stalls do not always like cards.
Going up Namsan mid-afternoon
The view is best at sunset, when the city lights up. Get there an hour before.
Eating only on the tourist streets
In Myeongdong or Insadong, step two streets over: prices drop and the cooking improves.
Trying to book everything
Apart from the DMZ, the Secret Garden at Changdeokgung and a few restaurants, almost nothing needs a reservation.
Good deals that always work
Free entry in hanbok
Rent traditional dress around Gyeongbokgung (from about ₩15,000 for two hours): palace entry becomes free, and the photos are better.
The last Wednesday of the month
Culture Day: free palaces, discounted museums or later opening hours.
The Han River at sunset한강
The parks at Yeouido, Banpo and Ttukseom are free. Koreans order fried chicken delivered straight to the lawn; you can also cook ramyeon in the machines at the park convenience stores.
Cheonggyecheon stream청계천
An eleven-kilometre walkway below street level, right in the centre. Perfect for walking from Gwanghwamun to Dongdaemun.
The national museums
The National Museum of Korea, the National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art on certain days, the War Memorial: permanent collections are free or nearly so.